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Vintage in 2022

11 May 2022

What does « Vintage » mean in 2022 ?

With my associate Marilyn we decided on a whim to participate in the Salon du Vintage in Annecy last weekend.

As soon as the doors opened the place was roaming with all kind of visitors.

Our stand, even though on a podium above the crowd - was literally assaulted by a relentless crowd without a minute for respite.

I overheard a lot of comments while trying to help our customers, some of them raised my attention. One person said « Whose vintage is that ? »

Many said to us : « Is this new stuff ? »

And I started thinking what is vintage nowadays ?

Intrinsically vintage is second hand, but how do we define it ?

One lady loved a denim dress-coat and asked me if it was from the 70’s, I said no it is from last year and she would not hear it.

She said she came here for vintage.

Personally I thought it was stupid, if it looks like the 70’s and you like it, what’s the problem ?

I am giving an existing product a second life and that’s all there is to it.

So how is vintage defined nowadays ?

For me it is anything from previous collections that you cannot find anymore for sale.

There is such a thing as 2019 Celine vintage by Hedi Slimane, then there is Phoebe Philo Celine vintage, and even further down the road you find 70’s Celine Vipiana vintage.

Within those collections there is iconic vintage. The pieces that defined a moment in the history of the house, the ones that become a look that everyone remembers and remain imprinted in our memories.

The Courrèges mini skirt & jacket, the Pucci prints, the Missoni knits, Gaultier’s tattooed jerseys, Versace’s prints, Alaia’s dresses, YSL Rive Gauche and then by Tom Ford, Gucci galore …

I could go on forever with so many designers.

Those looks have become a staple, a fashion token, instantly recognized by the discerning eye.

In the early 90’s there were 4 defining trends decided by a group of designers in many fields yearly, and I remember clearly when things changed.

They changed when the colors they decided for the year did not work and instead the buyers chose another color.

Then many more changes happened, the trends faded, they were not overpowering, you could find your own look, be a 60’s doll or a 50’s burlesque with a touch of victorian gothic and it worked.

Then grunge took everyone by surprise, and it lasted, to the dismay of most of the fashion industry leaders.

McQueen arrived and dared everything, subverting codes and the established order.

The search of personal style was on and the reign of the unique trend was off.

Personally I love the idea that I can shop throughout the years, find the style that fits me, the item I missed.

I love the freedom we are granted nowadays to pursue our own style and create it freely.

Vintage from last year or from the 60’s is now for everyone to hunt and find.

The fashion industry produces so many collections, I think buying second hand - no matter the year - is a virtuous act.

It is almost rebellious in the world we live in.

It says : let me find my own unique pieces, let me build my own style and identity.

Categories: Editorial